I just uploaded the circuit of the ESP8266 adaptor below. You don't need any of the extra components for normal operation, but an SMD capacitor (as big as you can get) could be an idea as the ESP8266 can draw quite a lot of power in bursts.
To put the bluetooth on I'm afraid you'd have to take the pins out of your pinned board. It's actually not that hard - just heat up and pull out each pin in turn. I guess you could also just pull the black bit off the bottom and then cut the pins flush with the bottom of the board.
If anyone can think of a way around it for shims like that (where the module on the bottom overlaps where the pins go) I'd be interested though. About the only solution I can see would be to make a long board like the ESP12 one. You could make a wider board that had space for a new set of pins on it, but then you still have to solder on an unpinned Pico.
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I just uploaded the circuit of the ESP8266 adaptor below. You don't need any of the extra components for normal operation, but an SMD capacitor (as big as you can get) could be an idea as the ESP8266 can draw quite a lot of power in bursts.
To put the bluetooth on I'm afraid you'd have to take the pins out of your pinned board. It's actually not that hard - just heat up and pull out each pin in turn. I guess you could also just pull the black bit off the bottom and then cut the pins flush with the bottom of the board.
If anyone can think of a way around it for shims like that (where the module on the bottom overlaps where the pins go) I'd be interested though. About the only solution I can see would be to make a long board like the ESP12 one. You could make a wider board that had space for a new set of pins on it, but then you still have to solder on an unpinned Pico.
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