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It is a nasty green, but it doesn't have to stay green!

super :)

And Espruino is Open Source so if they did take on some maintenance and it did do well they could just start putting it on watches and selling them themselves!

This is also true, it happened in my case, it was one of the reasons I stopped the project.

I will tell you the short story now that some time has passed, maybe it has some usable info. Sorry for the long post.

One thousand is an undervaluation to be on the safe side, it may be over 3 thousand, I know of some people that bought 100 p8's and resold them. There was a time that on every sale of an p8/p22 on alliexpress, you could see comments verifying the watch is eucwatch compatible or not. In Australia, Korea, Argentina and the UK it was sold from from legit physical stores that sold electric unicycles , flashed and ready, e-riders from the UK had them for 75 pounds.

I did not mind at all someone making a profit, my problem was that all this was not my work to offer as I pleased, fanoush atc1441 and you were the core, I was just putting pieces together. I tried talking to some of the resellers, asked hem to at least make a note on the sale site that this is an espruino device, put a link to the espruino site, and declare that the money goes to the store for flashing, not me in any way, but the UK dude was pulling my leg, he even changed the eucwatch name to e-riderswatch or something like that. The store from Australia was very nice, he even came to the atc1441 board to learn, but I had this nighmare that you or fanoush will someday see it on the internet, and I would have to explain that I am not an elephant.

This was my first time ever with javascript, I am no programmer, I am a engineer, I just wanted a watch to use with my EUC. It was super fun, I learned a lot, Fanoush and atc1441 were amazing the way I see it, they helped me in all the ways one could help someone, and I was happy feeling that they do it because they understand that I am in for the fun of it. When the volume of watches got out of hand I was afraid that it may look like I broke the trust.

Then came a comment by fanoush on the atc441 board, after I again asked his help on something , he said somethiing like "now you are ready to make a business out of it", something like that, the way Fanoush says things, that you are not sure if he pats your back or waiving his finger, and I thought ok, I am one of the good guys for sure, I will prove it, this is the end. A death in the family also helped a lot :)

the moral of the story is that you are right, some ideas may worth some of your time. The first time I wrote in this board, it was to ask you to consider supporting EUC's. You did not know what an EUC was, so it was not a surprise you dismissed it, but there is still time. Eucwatch is not a toy watch, it is a tool, it helped a lot of people not get hurt, it is monitoring the system and alerting the rider before face planting.

there was not and still there is not another solution that is expendable, safety needs a watch that costs less than 50 euros, so that if you fall, you wont try to save your 500euros applewatch and brake yous wrists in the process.

If you care, I can upload some videos from the community, they fused then into helmets as a head up display, they made wrist-guards with holders for the p8, a lot of ideas, the point is that if someone like you that is a programmer takes some time, I am now sure that a cheap dedicated watch for the EUC can surpass generic banglejs sales.

ps, right before stoping I was asked to support onewheels too, unofficially I mean, but I was already on the doorway, I am just mentioning it because they are the same market.

And by the time you have something the watch is discontinued.

and before they discontinued them, they were playing with our brains a bit, for the laughs of it. I remember the p22 changed some 5 revisions, different touch type, different acc, there was a time that 3 or 4 of them were out at the same time, one had reversed colors on the lcd, one had the btn1 on a different pin, one did not support the 12bit color mode at all, it was super fun trying to keep up, but a bit crazy in reality. :)

Not Magic/Rock board, it's totally different, different pins all around. (https://github.com/yngv27/EWatches/tree/­main/TK87G).

very nice repo, thank you for the info.

can you tell if the touch controller is rock like, or magic3 like? Are you reading it using polling or interrupts?Not important, just curiosity.

I think you also mentioned before that it is not DaFit despite the listing so needs to be taken apart? @enaon just FYI

Thanks, I am ok with the p8, I still use the one you gave me back then, the first gen was indestructible, amazing front glass quality. But if a 52840 had a nice screen, and the 816 touch controller with auto sleep, I would be happy to use my new UI version, I have it finished since forever, but neither the rock nor the magic3 were truly nice as a watch I think. This one is green and seems a bit huge, so I am not really interested, curiosity mostly :)

. I've got the touchscreen working 100%

Nice! Is it the magic board, or a new one? Is the touch the auto sleeping type? Is the screen brightness more magic3 like or rock like? :)

52840:

this one too (Z004), I haven't tested it, but it looks like a rock/magic3 board?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007497635449.html

staggeringly few people were willing to pay anything for it

This is so true, I too feel guilty for this. I learned so much using your software, there were over one thousand installations of the eucwatch when I stopped the project, but you got nothing out of it, nor did I, buy maybe a few banglejs sales were lost in the way.

I made a paypal donation a few weeks back, I used my UI for the magic3 for the cat toilet and felt that this time I should return something, I hope it reached you.

that project to support the P8

the p8 is long gone, out of sales. The same goes for most of the nrf hackable watches, very few exist nowdays, you are 3-4 years too late.

you are also missing an important point. Espruino is funded by hardware sales. It makes no sense trying to bypass the means of funding. At the end, if one succeeds in porting to a cheap alternative, he will only harm the project. I think this is mostly the reason that very few people will be willing to offer what you ask for. If you want to put some effort, espruino is ready for some 4-5 watches, if not, the bangle.js2 is fine as is.

I'm not looking to port it to a different chip

why not, it is a nice idea, I think you should go for it.

I just love it when fanoush gets serious :)

it is not as easy as you think @andiohn, only the watch named bangle.2 in this forum has the swd exposed, from the rest only the ones from dafit are hackable due to the efforts of fanoush and atc1441, and then again, they are not very similar to the bangle.

Jeffmer has done some work on porting some banglejs only functions to generic watches, but what you hope for is not easy at all.

https://github.com/jeffmer/WatchApps

I didn't mean to be rude

you were not, I was a bit, it was clear that you had it solved, yet I was returning to the watches limit thing. Sorry, all is ok :)

I don't really care about more interrupt pins anymore because I can use my solution (#28) with diodes. I already tried this solution and it works fine as expected.

nice, thanks for your time, I was just curious because on some older firmwares there was no limit on the number of watches I think. But yes, it is not important, thanks.

After I tried to set pins with setWatch for the 3 pins

a bit strange, I guess you run the setwatch command two times for pin D24, but where is the D17, the BTN1?

Maybe try assigning the watch number to a variable, so that you can then clear them and do your test better, like so?
testD22=setWatch(function(e) { console.log("testD22"); }, D22, {
repeat:true, edge:'both' });

clearWatch(testD22)

I'm not sure what this command does

It just lists the watches that are currently running. So you only have the BTN watch, and you can only enable two more, a total of three?

but it seems only two channels are available for users.

I am not sure this is an nRF restriction, this is why I am posting, so that Gordon and Fanoush will correct me :)

In any case, please run this to verify how many watches are running when you get the mesage that no more watches are available. Maybe some app is using a watch etc.
global["\xFF"].watches

My wife also ordered a CATLINK Pro-X self-cleaning litter box

Good choice on the a CATLINK Pro-X self-cleaning litter box, we will pretend it was yours. :) 15 days is easy to achieve if you switch to crystal sand, or some other non clumping type for the period you are away. The 13L dirt capacity is not that important because if 13 lt of bentonite mixed waste is in the waste bin, no sand will be left inside the litter box, it will be empty, they will have no place to go. For 15 days you do not need just a huge waste bin, you also need a way for the the litter box to auto refill, or not loose too much sand. Crystal sand helps a lot on that part.

You mentioned in the Greek forum that polyurethane resin is cheaper than epoxy and has a more plastic-like feel, whereas epoxy is closer to polycarbonate. Does polyurethane feel similar to ABS, or is it softer? Also, is it stiff enough to support a cat’s weight (assuming the design is similar to your tank as example)?

You are right, you can use polyurethane resin too, it is not as penetrative, you will have to use the brush running along the edge technique a bit more, the end result is indeed ABS like. Not soft, just bendable a bit, but strong enough. Price wise the difference it small, If you have one or the other use what you have to test, but if you get one I think an epoxy resin like the clear-21 is best, the polyurethane will need extra care to store what is left once you open the can.

As mentioned before, only 2 pins can be watched by setWatch with interrupts

can you verify this? Maybe you have 4 watches already running, and you are hitting a limit of 6. I have seen this limit in the past, on the Rock watch, with fanoush's firmware I could not enable a watch for the second button, with jefmer's it was ok, I think the bangle2 firmware has the same limit.

Maybe run this on the console to check how many you have running.
global["\xFF"].watches

Hi @SamSam,

thank you for the kind words, I will upload a per item photo-story on the greek forum for v2, I am waiting for some parts from alliexpres, the vibration requires a better way to secure the scooping part, it moves out of place. :)

I will also upload all the code for the magic3 on github. This a list of the parts I used(some you can find cheaper on other stores, those link are from my past orders page, so I have used them without problems, but I can see some prices went a bit up):
controler(magic3):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005373233740.html
servo for the ball( the 12V 270 version, it works very smooth at 5volts, and is way stronger at 5v than any other servo I have tried, and way more efficient, 6W max for the 12V model at 5volts to move 4Kg of sand, 14W for the 9V model at 5Volts):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004934282252.html
servo for the lock:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005180487492.html
main power module:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006361300312.html
controller/scale supply protection board
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006191578119.html
load sensors( 10kg)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32763839569.html
rods for the scooping part (ABS 3x250mm 25pc)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002115579949.html
latch for ball lock/scooping part
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002679373408.html
ToF sensor(VL53L0X)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006160743016.html

for the Bama flower pot, ~18 euros is the standard price here in Greece, I can see that on amazon.fr it costs 26 and not available. I am not sure if any of the Greek shops ships to France.

on the resin-cardboard I agree that it is useful for diy, it was an experiment so this time I got better and can do things like curves with no special tools or mold/template, paper is very nice to work with :)

I will make some comments on the procedure, unfortunately all 5 new ones are past the resin stage now, but I do have some photos. But over all it is super simple, the cardboard it self is important on how well it "drinks" the resin, I found out that cardboards that are somewhat soft, are not very resin friendly*. The cardboard on the bama pot is excellent, if you peel out the printed layer, it will "drink" all the resin you place on it, perfect to get a good idea on how strong resing/cardboard can be. Very strong. I am actually a bit lucky, as the first cardboard I used was the one from the bama pot, so I got very good results, had I first used some others I later tried, I maybe would have dismissed the idea as not useful.

*For example, I made two toilets using the cardboard from the neakasa m1, same thickness as the cardoard I used from some solar panels I got, but the neakasa m1 was not "drinking " the resin as well, I think some cardboards may have some anti moisture treatment on the paper, I think you can figure them out by how soft they are.

The resin I am using is this one, it is used in construction applications, but I think any low viscosity/high penetration epoxy resin will do. For reference, 1Lt costs 22 euros, and each toilet(base/scooping part/drawer) needs up to 1.5 lt to be very strong, or as low as 0.5lt to be good enough.

On how to apply the resin on the cardboard, I do it in two stages, first I use a painting brush to paint the resin on both surfaces of the cardboard, wait for 6-7 hours, and then depending on how well the cardboard drank the resin ( the second part is not needed for some thin cardboards like the one on the bama pot), I use the brush doing what one should never do when painting something, I repeatedly run it on the top edge, so that the resin falls though the holes. You can do it the other way around the first time, to get an idea on how well yous cardboard works with the resin. Run the brush on the edge several times to force resin through the holes, and wait an hour, the resin will eventually find its way down and out and will make the outer surface dark/wet. The time from no resin to ready is over 4 days, 12 hours in it will be non stick and easy to work with, bend it a bit, make final adjustments etc, maybe apply some more, but it needs at least 4 days to reach full hardness.

the paint is FLAME BLUE spray, 400ml – FB-834 (LIGHT GREY NEUTRAL), and is almost identical to the Ice (white) Bama sfera flower pot.

If you want to tinker then go ahead - it seems to work for cat litter boxes

hahaha :)

The magic3 with your display driver is super for under 15 euros.

I placed a 10pins plug where the charging pins were, so I got Vin, V batt, gnd, i2c bus and 5 pins available, very handy device. I even got the side button working fine after mounting it to place :)

in case anyone is interested, this how to works fine for hacking it, mostly for part 2, the web ide part, it is easier from the loader I think.

https://enaon.github.io/eucWatch/tools/hackme2/

a small demo of the scale accuracy.

It used a hx711 and 4 x 10kgr load sensors off aliexpress, the hx711 runs from battery voltage. I used the nordic PPK2 to test the hx711 at voltages from 3 volts to 4.2, readings were not affected by voltage, I read online that the hx711 modules are 5v only, but testing says they work fine from 3v upwards.

there are tree BIC lighters in the video, blue=empty, green =almost empty, yellow=brand new.

The scale is stable and can accurately tell which lighter is the full one, amazing espruino, I thought it would half work, instead it is the best scale I have in the house.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOwwdRC4nEw

I had a problem with the Neakasa m1, the lid mechanism is a weak point, it got stuck, I had to disassemble the toilet and found a lot of sand inside, so I decided to make a lid that is cleaning friendly, as an extra.

Big mistake, curves with precision are not easy to make, but I think I got it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn0dCzyuroE

The toilets did fine during testing, so I've made some more, version 2 :)

I have added:

1. a magic3 for the controller, so there is now a touchscreen, settings etc,
   
2. load cells and a hx711 for triggering and for sand level monitoring,
   
3. an VL53L0X for waste drawer level monitoring
   
4. and vibration.
   
   

This last one is very important:

The toilet can now handle pellets, a world's first I believe, it can scoop the solid waste and sift the sawdust at the same time.

This is a game changer, it leads to less waste volume and sand loss, for a fixed available volume it almost doubles the time needed between refiling the ball with sand/emptying the waste drawer.

It also makes the silicone lining most commercial solutions use not needed, when using a clumping sand type like betonite, 5 seconds of vibration is enough for everything to get unstuck.

I will upload a demo during the weekend, but until then if one can guess where the vibration is applied, and how the sawdust exits the ball, I will be happy to read.

ps.
if one cares to think about it mechanically but has no cats and no idea about the pellets+automatic toilets problem, it goes like this:

automatic toilets need a clumping type of sand, so that waste, solid or liquid, can form an object larger than the hole openings. The sand will trap it self and the waste will roll out.

Pellets do not clump when liquid is present, they dissolve to sawdust. This means that the dust will get trapped along with the rest of the sand, it cannot exit the ball, till now :)

I found 3 pads on the back that were not listed on @fanoush's Magic3 pin table: D13 (unmarked, grouped with SXD,TXD,D+,D-), D28 (unmarked, to the far right of that cluster), and D27 (unmarked, to the near right, below and to the left of D28).

thank you for this post, I had a look and I did found the pins you mentioned. D13 is the RxD I think, it is unmarked as you said but it is next to the TxD, so I guess it is the RxD.

The TxD is pin D38, and pin D46 is active on the magic too, the one in the middle on the key connector, so 5 easy solder pins in total. Thanks.

So maybe GC is not done or other intervals may not run (pinging watchdog in this case) etc?

nice, most probaby this was the case, I do have a watchdog that only needs 5 secs to fire, because the button on the dsd6 resets every 6 seconds or so, and I want to trigger it manually if needed.