Most recent activity
-
@fanoush, thank you very much for the information of the hot air gun with links. It looks good for my purposes.
-
@Gordon, I found those parts on Aliexpress and ordered a couple of them already. Thank you for your offer though. Also I'm thinking to buy a hot air gun as well.
Thanks. -
In the same Technical information page, the I2C device list says it's Kionix KX022. I looked it up and found that was the correct part with 12 pins.
@Gordon, thank you for the tip of the orientation of the package. Since it's LGA package that all the pins are under the package and not exposed to the side, without take the PCB on a hot plate, it's almost impossible to re-attach it with only a solering iron. I tried with low temperature solering paste and heating the entire package with a large blob of solder, but couldn't solder it back properly. Unfortunately, one side of the package was damaged and I gave up. :-) -
@Jay, thank you for your comment. I will try it.
-
Thank you, @fanoush.
I'm using a couple of different laptops for updating firmware or apps and programming for my watch and normally my watch is connected to my iPhone. Sometimes, even though I thought I had disconnected one device to connect to the other, it's still connected to the previous device. So I thought it would be useful to show which device my watch is connected to. It works fine with theNRF.getSecurityStatus().connected_addr
for my laptops, but because of the security feature on the iPhone, BLE address randomization, which I can't disable it, my watch shows random looking BLE addresses. That's why I wanted to find out whether there is any way to get the device name instead of the address.
I will look into other options.
Thanks. -
-
I opened my modified watch again to measure current for other reasons, and found the accelerometer was loose from the PCB. I gently touched it and was detached easily. During the modification, I haven’t touched that area with anything, especially the soldering iron.
Anyway, I’m trying to reattach it to see if I can get the accelerometer function again, but not successful yet.
But I noticed the number of pins on the package was different from the datasheet linked from the technical information page.
See attached screenshot of a part of the datasheet and a picture showing where the accelerometer used to be. In the datasheet, it’s 16 pins but the actual part has only 12 pins. Could anyone tell me what’s the actual part number? I want to see correct datasheet. -
Well, I disconnected the battery and reconnected, but it didn't solve the issue with the accelerometer. I think I have done all I could try. I don't want to damage other parts, so I will stop trying to figure it out. Although I'm going to miss the pedometer, but that's not a big deal.
My main reason to design the new case and adding so many (most people won't need it) buttons and buzzer and bigger battery was for my golfing (https://banglejs.com/apps/?id=golf-gps ). Currently it uses swipes for moving the holes and adding/subtracting scores while I'm playing, but if I touch (and slide) accidentally, the score or the hole changes unintentionally. That's why I wanted to have physical buttons (left/right and up/down) and bigger battery for continuous use of GPS. The buzzer is my preference over the vibration motor.
Although I lost the pedometer, I'm happy with the other modification. I have attached some pictures to show the internal arrangement of components in case someone's interested.
The motor is moved to the right side wall in a tightly fit hole. This motor vibrates radially, not axially, so it feels much stronger than original configuration (taped on the battery). The buzzer sounds loud enough. I have tested with a MOSFET and direct drive from the pin D43, but didn't see any difference, so just connected directly to the pin D43 for simplicity. As for the battery life, I tested yesterday with continuous GPS running after full charge and it lasted over 9 hours.
jeonlab.wordpress.com