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Maybe SLA prints would be better - they've got to be surely?
Pretty sure they are. Any remaining liquid resin inside the print should be cured after they blast it with UV after the print itself.
re-melt the surface to fill up any potential holes
I actually tried that after sanding one of the prints to get a better surface finish. Using a 630°C heatgun the outer edges melted a bit and became black and shiny but the flat faces did not melt before everything was so hot that it started warping. I think to be able to do this one would need a part with substantially more volume to have a chance to melt the surface without destroying the part. Or maybe freeze it beforehand :)
The way to go is probably a low viscosity epoxy resin that can seep into the pores or just painting it. I tried that with a solvent based clear coat and a metallic effect spray paint so the next prototype will show how that stands up to actual use.
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halemmerich
@Gordon
Oh wow, thanks for the update - that's very interesting! I always assumed it would be ok. Maybe SLA prints would be better - they've got to be surely?
I wonder if (if you don't care about dimensional accuracy) you could run over it with a hot air gun and re-melt the surface to fill up any potential holes?