Very slow SPI on ESP32?

I'm playing around with one of the TTGO boards. It has an ILI9341 screen. But it looks like SPI is running at an extremely low rate. It takes several seconds just to clear the screen.

SPI1.setup({sck:D18, miso:D12, mosi:D23, baud: 1000000});
var g = require("ILI9341").connect(SPI1, D26, D27, D5, function() {
  g.clear();
  g.drawString("Hello",0,0);
  g.setFontVector(20);
  g.setColor(0,0.5,1);
  g.drawString("Espruino",0,10);
});

I found an old thread that mentioned ESP32 defaulting to 100kbs and ignoring the baud setting. Is that still true? Any way around it? Thanks.