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I'm positive I've soldered the correct connections. It is possible though that I might have screwed the ground terminal (as mentioned in the first post, I had a problem connection with crossed solder I couldn't get apart, so I might have damaged the board).
I'll get the multimeter on it and see what I can find.
Matt
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Cheers guys.
@Kalus I've tried setting it into command mode (using instructions from the bluetooth page) and checked what the current settings are by sending AT commands, but I don't seem to be getting any data back. All calls to println return undefined. (I tried renaming the device to see if that takes hold but it didn't, on restart, it was still set to HC-05).
@Gordon just tried your debug suggestion and I seem to be getting nothing. When I connect putty, the terminal window opens, but it just sits there with the green cursor top left. I don't see anything printed nor do I see anything in the web IDE. I don't see the device connect in windows either so I don't think putty is actually connecting.
I think there is something odd going on though. I'm unable to connect to the board, but running the test code above, when I physically touch the board between 2 fingers (holding it on the sides like you would), I see the web IDE terminal outputting blank lines. Would this suggest there is a short somewhere?
Matt
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Heard about that. Gutting! Hope you get it sorted.
Havent recieved my protoboards yet, just got confirmation of them being shipped yesterday, so hopefully some time next week.
I'll get some of these ordered though. Im pretty happy with the wire routing so it just needs testing really. I'll give you a shout when they arrive and send one over to you if you don't mind giving it a run through its paces?
Matt
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@Hardware_Hacks yea. There is ringworm in the UK, but seems they are similar priced for just one.
I guess I could always order a set of 3 and just send one to you for testing :)
Matt
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Hmm, I think it just doesn't want to work.
Tried it with a 9v battery connected to GND and VBAT and still the same. Tried booting into the Mac partition of my machine and trying it there, but still the same. I've removed and re-attached the bluetooth module, and still the same.
I thought I might have messed up the soldering, as I made a mess of the GND + 3.3v connections (got a crossed connection and took a while to get it to separate) so wasn't sure if I damaged the board, but as it powers up and connects to the PC, I imagine these must be ok. The rest of the connections look fine so I really don't know what it could be.
Any other ideas?
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Hi Guys,
I've just installed my HC-05 bluetooth module and was able to pair it with my computer (MBP running Windows 8 via bootcamp) however when I see it in the device list, it shows up as offline. Strangely, when I launch the Web IDE, the com ports show up, but when I try to connect, it says connected, but I can't do anything else (I can't type into the console or anything).
Anyone got any ideas?
Matt
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@Hardware_Hacks that would be awesome. I've uploaded it to OSHPark if you fancy ordering one.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/0G2YdWHD
Do let me know how you get on.
Matt
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Ahh, cool, didn't spot that one. I take it this would require someone to solder the pins? I tend to like to keep things temporary if possible, so you can always use it the other way more easily.
I was actually gonna look at swapping the bank of 4 for a bank of 3, so you couldn't have both E>A and A>E at the same time.
I'll post up another pic in a bit.
Matt
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PS @Gordon, I am using eagle, but I might have a bit of fun with the heatsink and make it into a weird shape. Maybe a cup of coffee? :)
Matt
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Almost there (need to double check the polarity of my capacitors on the voltage regulator).
I've just been trying to get my head around the various power options which I think I now have. If you look at the attached, I've now got a few jumpers defined. The one next to the voltage regulator lets you bypass it, so if you do feed it in a constant 5v, you don't have to loose volts going through it.
The other set lets you define whether power should come from the Epsruino to the Arduino shield (E>A), or whether power to the Arduino Shield should flow to the Espruino (A>E).
So, these are setup as follows:
A>E
V+ > VIN Pin > Voltage Regulator > 5v Pin > VBAT EspruinoE>A
VBAT > VIN Pin > Voltage Regulator (probably set to bypass) > 5vSo by always sending volts in to the vin pin, then to the regulator, you can always power the arduino shield directly from the vin pin aswell, and it will still get regulated.
Obviously, if you jumper both at the same time, or opt to bypass the regulator whilst supplying more then 5v, you run the risk of damage, but I guess this is just down to people being careful?
So, can anyone see any flaws in my logic?
Cheers
Matt
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Thinking of where to put the LM7805, do you think it would be safe to put between the adapter / espruino if it's sat on a copper pad (like the attached)? I just remember these things getting pretty hot, so don't want to do any damage to the Espruino (especially given the Espruino chip will be directly above it).
Matt
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Cool.
I think I might need to change a couple of things. I think i need to add the voltage regulator in between VBAT and 5v, rather than on the 5v line. Also, if we want to be able to power the 5v pin from the USB connected to the Espruino, I might also need to add another jumper to allow the voltage regulator to be bypassed (ie, if you already have 5v coming from USB, you won't want it going through the regulator again).
So close...
Matt
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So this is what I've got so far. I've mapped everything as per the previous map spreadsheet and have added a screw terminal to attached 5v power (I haven't yet added a voltage regulator yet). I've also added a power jumper to allow the 5v to be sent to VBAT in order to power the Espruino too. I've purposefully located the screw terminal in front of the power socket on the Espruino to prevent 2 power supplies being attached at once.
So, my last question. What do people thing regarding the 5v regulator? If we used a L7805, this would require a minimum of 7v to be supplied right? Plus would need space for a heatsink. What if someone wants to connect a 5v supply direct? Has anybody got any other suggestions for regulating the voltage? or should we just have the screw terminal and say "make sure you attached a regulated 5v supply"?
Matt
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Ok, so here is was I have for the pin maps. As I say, I've taken the Adafruit CC3000 shield as an example, and ensured that should work be mapping those pins, the rest I have taken the best options available based upon the functions from the various pinout diagrams. The only area that is marginly "weird" is between arduino pins 2 to 5 where we have to use a few non-consective numbers together, but this is based upon the Arduino CC3000 pinout and the Espruino CC3000 requirements.
Other than that, can anyone see any glaring issues?
Matt
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Awesome! I think I should be able to get this nailed tonight then :)
Regarding the 5v regulator, I do have some spare L7805's here. I've seen a few circuits for these using capacitors between the pins for protection. Am I right in assuming these are for AC currents? and given that these boards should only ever be driven by DC currents, should it be ok to leave them out if I want to incorporate a 5v regulator into the board? (I might add a button too :))
Cheers
Matt
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Actually, I think I've made a mistake. Pin 0 of the arduino should map to pin A10. Either way, looking at the mapping, I am using some duplicate numbers now. @Gordon can you confirm if any of these will cause issues?
Many thanks
Matt
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Hey Gordon,
I bought the bluetooth module from here
I'll check the ARM connections though and see what I find.
Thanks for the help
Matt