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@Gordon I had forgotten that I did it. Oops! It was working on my laptop messing about with lots of different stuff and working fine, the problem arose when I was using it on my iMac (which I had set up with the HID code and paired with). I haven't tried it as a HID button again yet.

I will try it again and let you know. Am I right in thinking I have to disconnect from Web Bluetooth and pair with the system OS to get HID to work as expected?

@François Will try and help.

1. Yes, Puck is still in the os x bluetooth menu when Chrome is closed.
   
2. I mean that I disconnect (not remove) the Puck from the os x bluetooth menu, then
   a couple of seconds later it is back on the menu in bold (meaning
   that the Puck has connected again) this is whether chrome is open or
   closed.
   
3. Yep, I tried the re-scan link and it didn't show up.
   
4. I am at work and can't test on Canary, but will update this post when I am home.
   
   

From what I understand. If the Puck is connected to something, it stops advertising, and so doesn't show up to anything else that you scan with, whether it's a phone, different computer etc. I may well be wrong, but that's how it looks.

I think that the issue may have arisen when I tried to make my Puck into a Play/Pause button (HID). I uploaded the code, then disconnected from the Web IDE, then connected via the os x bluetooth menu, as I reasoned that the os would need to connect for it to be able to control the media player. After that point, even if I reset the code to default (battery out, hold button down etc.) then os x saw that it had connected to the device before and just grabbed it when it was being advertised, which is why I needed to make os x forget the device completely so I could pair again in Chrome. I think that if I was quick enough, I probably could have connected via Web Bluetooth before os x did, (after disconnecting the device).

So yes, I think the way that you reproduced it was the same reason my Puck wasn't showing up.

Hi,

I'm probably missing something somewhere in the docs, but I'm trying to find information about how NFC works on the Puck, basically I want to change the webpage that the default code on the Puck redirects to when it comes near a phone etc.

Could you point me in the right direction, or is this something that is coming?

Thanks

@Gordon I looked at the troubleshooting page via the Puck quick start page: https://www.espruino.com/Puck.js+Quick+Start. Then I headed to the forum after that.

@skinofstars Derp! That'll teach me to not read the forum properly! However, I didn't need to go through any other steps like rebooting, just Remove was enough in my case.

Yep, if I click Disconnect as normal it pops back into the menu after a couple of seconds, but the Remove option, it doesn't auto-reconnect and allows me to connect via Chrome.

Once it's paired again in Chrome, the puck reappears in the os x bluetooth menu, but I am able to disconnect and re-connect via the web ide. Maybe when you pair it in Chrome, it also pairs it somehow in os x? Perhaps I tried to disconnect from the os x bluetooth menu and that sort of locks it out of Chrome or something? No idea what I'm talking about really!

That makes sense about the BT system menu.

I followed the steps above but no joy.

HOWEVER! What did work for me was holding the option key down whilst clicking on the bluetooth icon in the menu bar. This opens up some more options in the bluetooth menu (see screenshot), one of them being 'remove'. I clicked this and was able to connect in chrome immediately. Have tried it a couple of times and it seems to work consistently.

Hi, I'm having a similar issue. The web ide connected ok when I first got the puck, but it won't find the device now. I have installed firmware version 1v89 and am on chrome Version 54.0.2840.98 (64-bit)

My mac is telling me that I'm connected to the puck (it auto-connects) in the bluetooth menu. So I thought maybe that was blocking the connection to the web ide, but when I disconnect from the bluetooth menu it still doesn't find it. Also, the 'main' bluetooth window doesn't show the puck (see screenshot).

The puck can be found in nRF Connect, and there doesn't seem to be anything of any help in the ide console.

Woohoo! Thanks!

@Gordon Looks good! However, I don't know if it's my setup or something else, but this image:

Which gave this screenshot when uploaded:

Makes this on my display:

What do you think? When I display fonts, etc, it seems to work, and although there is some noise when I base64 encode images they seem to be ok too.

@Gordon Argh! Another case of me not reading things properly, sorry! Yes, there is an example down there of course, AND a link to a base64 encoder. Derp!

@Wilberforce Thanks for the tip, I'll try that out as I'm getting some noise on my images at the moment.

Hello, I've been looking around for a way to generate an array to store images in for use on an OLED, and while there are lots of results on Google, I don't seem to be able to find anything suitable that works for me.

I have a monochrome bitmap that I would like to convert to an array that I can put on the Pico. It feels like it should be very simple, but I am not having much luck getting them to work. Any tips/ideas? I am using ImageMagick on os x if anyone has an idea on how to use that to achieve it.

I know this is a very old thread, but I was still having issues. In the end I made a horrible kludge to make mine work. I bridged 19/20 on the OLED as suggested but it still didn't work, but when I was poking about, it seems if I flip() the display all seems to work! A bit odd and I don't understand it, but it's working for me now. I do have to call flip() every time I want the display to update.

EDIT I am such a div. You do actually have to call flip anyway. RTFM!

Ah, I thought it was possibly too much. The printer has a built in battery but I don't think it lasts all that long in reality although maybe the Espruino could be used to 'wake up' the printer and linux board to try and conserve battery a bit.

The idea was that the Espruino would handle a request made from a web page (it would be listening to changes in an API or something, I haven't figured that out yet) then pass the location of the image/page to print to the thing that controls the printer.

I have a raspberry pi laying around so maybe I could experiment with that first.

Thanks for the response!

Hello,

I have no idea if this is possible or not, but would there be any way that the pico could interface with a printer? Specifically, one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Polaroid-Digital-Photo-Printer-Technology/dp/B001APNVTQ

I want to make a standalone internet connected printer in a really small package. What do you think?

The printer supports bluetooth as well, so maybe if not a USB connection then a bluetooth module would work?

Hello, just hijacking this thread. I have been tinkering with a (non Adafruit) OLED and get the same result as @Dennis in that it connects but just shows a load of junk on the screen.

I have removed the contents of the callback so that I only connect to the screen and don't send any data to it other than what's in the initCmds array and still get the garbage, so I guess it's to do with the init voodoo.

Weirdly the Adafruit library works with the screen on Arduino (apart from I have to change the address). I have looked at the datasheets but I have to confess they are a complete mystery to me and wouldn't really know where to start in changing the init variables.

An update. I ran the sensor from the 5v/GND lines of the Arduino while pinging the trigger and echo with the pico. I got what I was expecting (although every other line there was a weird enormous number, but I guess that has something to do with the Arduino) so I guess this module needs a full 5v for power.

Hi guys,
So I tested the sensor on my Arduino Uno and it works as expected using the code from this page: http://www.robot-electronics.co.uk/files/arduino_srf04.ino Same environment, breadboard and leads, just plugged them straight out of the Pico into the Arduino.

I tried the other analog pins I have access to (only A5,A6,A7,B1 as I soldered the shim and wifi module on) and got the same results. Do you think I could have messed something up soldering the wifi module on?

I just did some (un)scientific testing and still can't get the thing to get the right distance. I moved the sensor the the very edge of the desk at the edge of the breadboard and measured some distances using a ruler and the handy Espruino reference card that I got in the kit and got the following values (actual measurement on left, console.log on right):

1. cm = 1cm
   
2. cm = 1.7cm
   
3. cm = 2cm
   
4. cm = 2.6cm
   
5. cm = 3.3cm
   
6. cm = 3.7cm
   
7. +cm = 4.1
   
   

I am guessing it's probably something to do with my module, but does that kind of pattern make any sense to you? Some kind of resistor needed? Again, apologies for my utter ignorance about this stuff.

Ah, right, so I was powering it off 3.3 and that seemed to be the issue. I am now powering it off VBat (which is the equivalent to 5v out when powered from a USB port?) and it seems to be working ok, detecting things that are closer than 4cm.

It does seem to be maxing out at 4cm ish though, when there is nothing in front of it, but that could just be how it's set up (currently just plugged into a breadboard), or maybe a limitation of the module?

Thanks @DrAzzy and @Gordon I am really enjoying playing with the Pico.

Hi all,

I have tried following the guide at http://www.espruino.com/HC-SR04 to get the HY-SRF05 module working. From what I understand it is pretty much the same as the SR04, but I am super new at electronics, so maybe it isn't!

Anyway, I am using pins A6/A7 as I have the Wifi module on A0-A4 and I am always getting an output of between 35 - 45 when I log it in the console regardless of whether something is in front of it.

Anyone got any ideas on why it might not be working?