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  • There should be a picture below. I forget where I got the Pogo pins I used, but they're quite delicate (and around 16mm long). I just took an old Puck prototype PCB and drilled out the SWD pads to fit pins - then manually wired on the back, and connected to the 0.1" headers on the nRF52. You need to connect to one of the Arduino headers too since amazingly there's no GND on that header!

    DirtyPCBs sell super-cheap and quite nice Pogo pins (although they are quite long) - so if you used those then you could order your PCB at the same time as the pins :)

    I'd say:

    • Maybe make it so you could get two of the same PCB and then stack one on top of the other with a spacer between to strengthen the pogo pins - if you're using long ones?
    • Remember to connect GND DETECT to GND - which'll cause the nRF52DK to switch from using SWD to the on-board nRF52
    • Maybe you can think of some magic way of holding the Puck down :)
    • You could provide a header for attaching a USB-Serial converter, so you can get Serial communications to the Puck through D28/D29 - that's what the 3 wire flying lead I have is for.
    • The on-board voltage supply is 2.8v, so you could maybe add some way of making sure it didn't try and flatten the CR2032 battery if it's been left in the Puck during programming? Maybe just a schottky diode.

    But those are just random ideas - for most people it's the programming that'll be the most useful.

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    • Screenshot at 2018-01-05 09-03-36.png

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