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Thank you Gordon; That means I'll put the headers then put another module and pins to do the work to figure out the issue. I'm guessing it's me having killed the pads on the pixl.js bottom pins and for the next one I WILL put in headers so I can put in any module and throw out any bad ones.
This is one of the best IoT products ever and I just LOVE to have this on my neck!
@Gordon I'll try that tonight. just got the headers to solder in.
QUESTION: is the pins in the bottom also repeated anywhere else in the board. I then can bodge some wires to see if it's a hardware issue.
I keep insisting it's hardware because it changes even when the code doesn't.
I've ordered another pixl badge and I'll also try this same code with the EspruinoWifi and the LCD board I made the driver for previously. But it's a different library. but we'll prove I guess that the code isn't an issue.
I understand that code. but can't see what it would do. You are essentially asking me to have it wait for the init. then wait 1.5 seconds and then call the method to connect to the internet. Is this correct?
I've tried something similar in that I put the intial call on a timeout of 5 seconds and it didn't help.
plus I'm just wondering why it'll sometimes work (after a couple of days of not working) but only in debug mode.
again. it's no consitant. It's not a save or a reboot or code that changes it. It's just waiting.
@allObjects I think you're talking about the same thing that robin is talking about. Having the system wait a while and then call the request.
I have the system poll the price ever 5 minutes. I tried that every 2 minutes and waited (the 2 minutes) and the second call failed just line the first on the initial bootup.
I hadn't had any time lately (holiday and all) to do all the things you all suggested, but I had to do something. So I thought I'd record the lights. And BLAM it's of course working.
OF COURSE UNTIL THE NEXT Day (actually until the next Save() but I don't think that's a factor)
It's dead now
I've bought 3 more ESP-01s (the ESP8266 modules for this) and I'll buy another badge and solder in some headers instead. I don't want to damage the Pixljs again.
@Gordon is there pins equal to all the required ones in the footer for me to cut the existing ESP module and try on another pins at the top?
Mine has blue lights.
One quick blink as everything is turned on. then about a second later nice flashing (like it's communicating. and then dead. like someone pulled the power cord less than a second after it did it flickering dance.
ok. so you think I should botch a wire from the top 3.3v and ground down to the esp8266's 3.3v and ground.
I was thinking that of that and was trying to hold wires (but I only have two hands so I don't think I got it working.
As for the dev camp. It's in Feb and I'll make sure to post videos and photos on youtube and here for anyone interested.
You know @gordon the pixl.js badge doesn't even seem to flicker.
and just a reminder on the first day it was FLAWLESS for several hours as I was coding.
It wasn't until the next day.
Now to be sure I'm no soldering expert so although I'm incredibly humbled if @Robin thinks I did a good job I had put in the ESP8266 wrong and had to unsolder and resolder so I know I very well may have damaged it.
But there's no red light (the red light or buzzer or NOT on by the time the ESP8266 seems to turn on. and like I said it SEEMS to be happening.
I haven't had the time to put on that capacitor. But I LOVE this group because everyone is making suggestions and working with me which is Why I'm already on my 4th Espruino products (love them all) and using a bunch of the full ESP8266 modules to do a big presentation at the next South Florida Dev Camp that get's about 1,5000 people to that conference. (I'm on the IoT track so I don't expect all 1,5000 people to show up. but if they knew what I know they would show up)
gave me an error. The module looks to have a "debug"
but wouldn't I call it like:
I'll try that when I get home. and yes I have to find a capacitor and place it on there to see if it helps.
ALSO I did measure the 3.3 and ground (using a regular multimeter) and I see it turn on. stay on and when the lights go out it goes down to 0v so it's being killed (or it's shorting)
Please correct me if I don't understand anything hardware wise. I'm just reporting what I see.