I've managed to get i2c working on the ESP32 - using parts of the arduino library.
The device supports 2 i2c devices - at this stage it's only one supported ( The version 1.0 sdk did not contain the spi and i2c api's as expected)
The bitrate seemed to default to 50000, so I needed to set to 100000 for it to work.
The esp32 needed to be powered up with the display Vcc left off and then turned on, otherwise the board would not intialise properly - it seem to be better feeding the display 5V directly.
var lcd = require("HD44780").connectI2C(I2C1);
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